"We left Worchester with our boots and our bags and America dressed herself in front of our eyes"
-State Radio, Adelaide
Skinny trees. I remember, as I dozed off, being struck by how damn skinny the trees were in Louisiana. The pine trees, that is, or at least the ones I could see from the train. The trees in New Orleans were thick, covered in ferns and dripping with vines. But from the train leaving New Orleans, headed towards the Texas border, all I could see were tall skinny pine trees coming out of the swamp.
I woke up just over the border in Texas as we crossed the Neches River and I saw fish actually jumping out of the water. I didn't know they did that outside of Porgy and Bess. Ten minutes later we stopped in Beaumont, Texas for 45 minutes, which is approximately 44 minutes too long. Now I am sure Beaumont, Texas is loved by every one of its residents and there are many great things about it. But all I got to experience was the Amtrak station, two toothless old railroad enthusiasts taking pictures of the train, the thousand percent humidity East Texas air, and the Dollar General, which has nothing for sale for a dollar and reeks of the crushed dreams of its employees and customers alike. I guess the dollar store has been killed by inflation and the general store has been killed by specialization in the commercial sector. Not that the latter is bad. If it weren't for the specialization that came with the industrial era, we wouldn't have railroads, and I wouldn't be getting across Texas on anything with more horsepower than a horse. Several very nice Texans asked me if they could help me find anything. I told them "no, I'm just looking," because I didn't want to tell them "I'm doing an ethnography or your town's pathetic dollar store."
We had to get back on the train to make it to our afternoon-long layover in Houston, so I couldn't explore all the wondrous sites that Beaumot has to offer. For some reason the train needs to spend a couple hours idling on the tracks in Houston, and the passengers are free to roam around the neighborhoods north of Downtown. Although you're close to Downtown, there's nothing to do there and you're separated by a wall of Texas highways making convoluted overpasses. Maybe if I had some more time I would find NASA mission control and try to talk to space.
Instead I wandered around trying to find a bar to hang out in for a few hours. And that's how I met Bob. He looked maybe sixty, his hair gray but his eyebrows still black. Salt-and-pepper beard. He was wearing a Hawaiian shirt and red suspenders. Could have been that this guy had wasted away too much in Margaritaville. He walked with a cane and the accompanying cane shuffle so at first I resented him picking me as a walking companion. But we had a similar goal and old people are great sources of wisdom and encouragement.
There was nothing around. We wandered for over an hour, ready to settle for a convenience store with cold beer but even that couldn't be found. It's just a humid, sticky mess out there, filled with smog and nowhere to go.
Circling back to an intersection near the train station we met up with another passenger. His name was Troy, and he was moving back to Portland from New Orleans, where he had been working as a pedicab driver. The French Qaurter is filled with these. For those of you who don't know, a pedicab is a rickshaw without a canopy, propelled by a healthy American on a bicycle, rather than an orphan on the streets of Calcutta. He had come to the Crescent City a few months prior in a school bus converted to run on used vegetable oil and with the seats replaced by beds. They had to stop every four hours or so, depending on the quality of the oil they had picked up at the last stop. He said they would always look out for Mexican restaurants, since they consistently had the cleanest oil.
We decided to head north, away from downtown, the only direction we hadn't tried yet. After 20 minutes of walking we saw a sign on the other side of the street with a Belgian flag and a sign that read "Cafe Brussels." No way. No fucking way there's anything even vaguely European in Houston. (Sorry for all the riffing, Houston. I only do it because I know you can take it.) Aside from King Leopold raping the Congo and having a region named after Ned Flanders, the only thing I really know about Belgium is beer. Delicious beer, made by monks and smiling, ruddy, stout innkeepers. We walked inside to glorious air conditioning and a bar with a panoply of taps. Bob asks "do you have beer?"
"Of course we have beer," says the owner, a tall middle aged woman with a Walloon accent. "Belgian beer is the best beer in the world."
Bob stared at the taps for a few minutes, looking increasingly confused and distraught. "Now, I like Budweiser," he said. "What do you have that's like Budweiser." She pours him a glass of a white ale (Belgian, of course). Gracefully. No jokes about how American beer is like having sex in a canoe, just lets the product do the talking. Bob approved. The owner said this was the first Monday they were open, and that she was unsure they would get any customers. We lucked out.
On the walk back to the train station Bob told us why he needed the cane. He had some form scoliosis since he was fifteen, and as a result had horrible arthritis in some of his discs. When he was diagnosed as a teenager, the doctor said he would be in a wheelchair by the time he was 40. Here he was in his 50's and still walking upright, although not exactly bipedal. I told him about the stress fracture I had in my back, and my herniated disc that would probably never heal. We were back pain buddies!
We played blackjack in the observation car during the next leg to San Antonio. In our economy, half a pistachio shell was one money, a banana chip was five, and a plastic cup was twenty. When someone ran low on shells we just took more from our federal reserve of snacks and Amtrak plastic cups causing mass inflation in our little economy. As the game progressed and we plodded across South Texas, Bob began to look more and more pained. He kept grabbing his back and wincing. Eventually he went to his seat and grabbed two bottles of painkillers, different kinds he was supposed to take together. One of them I recall was Vicodin and I can't say I say I remember the name of the other. He took some of both and for a while it seemed as though he would zone in for a hand and then zone out again. I don't know if it was because of the drugs or the pain. With spinal problems, the pain can be just as debilitating as any narcotic. He started bobbing around in his chair like a Hasidic scholar reading the Torah. Occasionally he would get up and walk around.
Some time before midnight we pulled in to San Antonio. Another layover of a few hours. All we had to eat that day was delicious Belgian beer and pistachios, so we decided to find a Denny's which we had heard was nearby. We walked towards downtown. It seemed Bob was in a lot of pain but he said that walking was the best thing for him. Having gone through something similar I knew this was true. Walking is the best thing for a hurting back. Sitting just makes it worse.
Bob mentioned something about being hospitalized a few years prior. He said they thought he was homeless. For the first time I doubted whether a spinal deformity was the worst of his problems. Maybe there was something more going on here. I even wondered if it was just a mask for a drug problem. But then I saw the way he moved and I recognized it immediately. That was how I move when my disc flares up. And there were times he would slip back in to perfect lucidity. He was there in the conversation, engaged, the pain ebbing, and then it would come on again in another wave, demanding his full attention.
The waitress brought him his some coffee and as he was bringing it up to his mouth another spasm of pain washed over him. His hand made a sudden jerk and he spilled the coffee everywhere. He offered to clean it up but the waitress insisted she do it. Just walk around in the parking lot, I told him, we'll be out soon. I shared my doubts with Troy. He didn't know what to make of it either. He did take a lot of drugs on the train. And they didn't exactly seem to stop whatever symptoms he was having.
When I broke my back - it wasn't too serious, you have to keep in mind, only two hairline fractures in the lateral processes of my lowermost vertebra and a herniation in the disc above it - there would be days when I would feel nothing. Then there would be days when I couldn't concentrate on anything except the sound of my own moaning as I lay on my back. (The bone has healed but the disc probably never will. It just usually stays asymptomatic now if I stretch a lot.) When there's a problem with your disc, you can be fine one moment and then all of a sudden you will feel a tightness creeping up on you. You try to ignore it like a superstition but it gets stronger and stronger until there is pain radiating out in all directions from one node of pure 24-carat distilled pain. You have no choice but to be useless as you ride it out. Clear your calendar and find something to distract you that can be done lying down. That's what must have happened to Bob. He was fine when he got on the train, fine wandering the streets of Houston for something cold to drink, but all that sitting, putting pressure on the spinal column, must have triggered something. I hoped it was just that - back pain. But then part of me hoped it was something else, because whatever afflicted him, if it was indeed with his spine, was the mother of my Grendel.
We asked Bob if he wanted to go back to the train station to find a place to rest. He said walking made it feel the best. Nobody can come to San Antonio without seeing the Alamo, and even though it was almost 1 AM, we had to check it out. Today, it's hard to picture the Alamo as a makeshift outpost garrison in the middle of the desert. There is no dirt for Davey Crocket to draw a line in with his boots. The whole building is surrounded by paved walkways, rolling lawns, and informative plaques, lit up with floodlights all through the night. I guess they figure Texas is where all the energy is coming from and they're going to use all they can. Bob asked me to take picture of him in front of the Alamo with my phone and then gave me his email address and I sent it to him.
We then went across the street to a fountain, which we followed down a staircase and through the lobby of a hotel. It ran all the way to the San Antonio River Walk. Basically, the city of San Antonio has decided to use their oil money to create an artificial river that winds through downtown and also extends something like forty miles outside of the city. I had actually started a draft of a story set in a fictional Central Asian nation that suddenly became wealthy from oil deposits and built a new capital complete with an artificial river, but I scrapped it after I realized I had no plot, just an interesting setting. Looks like San Antonio had the idea first, but could actually follow through.
The River Walk is set a story beneath street level. It's this little bubble of lushness and attractive building facades that feels a world away from the streets on the surface. Not that there's any natural greenery or soil to speak of; everything is paved over and the banks are the stone walkways that line both sides. There were ducks though. Sometimes we would walk under a bridge and see some ducks roosting for the night. They knew at this point that people were less of a threat and more providers of food. It was pretty dead, being past midnight on a Monday night (Tuesday morning?) and the only people out were overdressed, screeching drunk women and busboys cleaning up outdoor tables. I heard a jazz trio closing out at some chain restaurant's bar, but after New Orleans I new that if I went in to give them a better listen, whatever I heard would be a disappointment. Bob would sometimes zone out of lucidity and into pain-induced delirium, but the walking did seem to be doing him good, in the aggregate.
We made it back to the train station in time for our train's 2:30 AM departure. Troy and I crashed in the observation car, keeping an eye on Bob. Sitting down looked like it did a number on him and his face would sometimes contort in pain. He started bobbing and weaving around again.
At some point I must have drifted off and I woke up in the plains of West Texas, gradually browning as we made our way west. Cormac McCarthy country. I needed to do some stretching to shake off the night of sleeping in an observation car chair, watching the sun rise over the plains. Then I remembered Bob. I found him at the far end of the car, sitting in a chair, waving his torso around like one of those wacky inflatable arm-flailing tube men which car dealerships display to announce sales where you can buy a car for nothing now and be making payments for the rest of your life. Troy and I were unsure of what to do. He had already taken a copious amount of painkillers. At this point he was even difficult to talk to. I got him some water since it was all I could do, and then just waited. I sat there, trying to read but it I couldn't keep focused. But there was nothing I could do either so I just tried to read or enjoy the gradually changing landscape.
And then my spidey sense tingled. I looked up at Bob's end of the car and saw the conductor standing next to him, on his walkie-talkie. Based on my experience with Amtrak conductors, I knew this was not good. These are the people who kicked me off a train for having a non-permissible bag the day before Christmas, who will take any attempt by a passenger to preserve some dignity as a personal offense. At least that's how my negative experiences have gone. To be fair, there are plenty of times a train ride passed without incident. But if they don't like the way you're acting, they will not hesitate to throw you off the train.
I saw the conductor taking Bob to the downstairs compartment of the observatory car. I followed him down and once he had sat Bob down I pulled him aside and told him what was going on. He's just got a little back pain, I said, there's nothing to worry about, he's not drunk or anything. The conductor brushed me aside and went further back to the coach cars. I followed him trying to explain the situation. I finally corner him in the back of the train and ask him what's going on. He says that he's going to have to kick Bob off the train because he was "bothering people." Who was he bothering? I asked.
His response was "there are over 200 people on this train I have to worry about."
"Who? Which of those 200 passengers was he bothering."
"Well if he is in pain, like you're saying, he needs to get to a hospital."
"So what, you're just going to strand him here?" I knew he didn't have much money and might not be able to afford buying another train ticket when the train came through again in three days, let alone a place to stay for that long.
"Hey, you want to get kicked off the train with him." He turned to leave.
I blurted out the most verbose thing I could say at the moment. "Aw, fuck you man!" I'm not sure he heard it.
I paced around wondering what I should do. Maybe I should just get kicked off with him. I was only going as far as El Paso and I had no pressing engagements there. Was it time for me to just sack up and get kicked off so I could take care of him? I wanted to see America and maybe the best place to find it was in some water stop in West Texas. I decided to fight tooth and nail to keep Bob on the train and let my future on it be determined with how the conductor decided to react. Because tyrants only have power when they take your authority, not when you surrender it. But I wouldn't be alone.
We rolled into Alpine, Texas, a deceptively named town of 5,905 people. Waiting for us on the platform were four police officers. The conductor walked Bob out and started talking to the sheriff while I tried to explain to another officer that Bob hadn't bothered anyone and that the best thing to do was get him to LA, where his daughter and her family were waiting for him; they would know what to do best. And then other passengers, who were out on the platform stretching their legs, came forward. There were about fifteen people all butting in to the conductor's conversation with the sheriff. One woman just kept repeating "he aint botherin nobody. He aint botherin
nobody!"
I had another exchange with the conductor and at the end dropped the f-bomb a second time, saying "this is fucked up, man." This time the conductor turned around. "What did you call me?" I stated back at him. "I didn't call you anything. I was just expressing my displeasure with the way this scenario is unfolding, that's all." One of the officers pulled me aside and told me I did good not mouthing off to him, because the conductor was trying to get me kicked off for profanity as well. If that were to be my fate, then so be it.
An assistant conductor and a third officer asked Troy and I for our side of the story. The assistant conductor seemed adamant that Bob shouldn't have even got on an Amtrak train, since he had other options. I pointed out to him that he couldn't afford to fly and that taking a bus is even worse for someone with that kind of back pain. When we tried to see if maybe Bob could use one of the handicapped seats, he said he couldn't, because he didn't know if they were going to be full later with reserved tickets. I tried to tell him that as a conductor in 2013 he should be able to know this information, because of things like the internet, and wifi, but I guess Amtrak is not with the times.
I walked over to the conductor and sheriff. The other passengers were still tring to keep Bob on the train. Some of had broken off and had formed a circle. They were praying. And Bob, right now he was standing up, lucid, competent, calmly telling the conductor that he didn't have the rights to do this. The conductor maintained that Bob was bothering "at least 12 people on the train." I reminded him that it's a bad idea to lie to a police officer but he kept up his tirade of bullshit.
Again, I felt obligated to grab my backpack from the coach cabin and get out here, in Alpine Texas, of all places, and make sure someone was taking care of Bob. I paced around the platform for a few minutes, walking to the other end. But as I was walking back I noticed Bob getting back on the train. The sheriff walked up to me and shook me hand. He looked me in the eye and said "thank you." I couldn't believe it. I should have at least said "no, thank
you" or something along those lines, but I was so dumbfounded as faith in humanity once again washed over my brainscape I just stood there grinning like a midget on stilts.
We did it! A bunch of strangers actually came together and helped our fellow man out of a situation with two kinds of authorities. You don't get that kind of camaraderie on an airplane, that's for sure. On a cross-country flight you just stare at your magazine and cultivate your hatred for everyone around you,
especially the guy behind you. But on a train across Texas, you're family by the end.
There was an RN in the group of passengers on the platform advocating for Bob, and she had agreed to sit with him all the way to Los Angeles, making sure he was okay. There would also be an eyewitness to confirm, still, that he aint botherin nobody.
The rest of the way to El Paso I kept an eye on him too, getting him water so he could take his painkillers and some snacks so they wouldn't sit too heavy on his stomach, while his personal nurse for the rest of the trip talked to him to keep his mind off the pain.
I last saw Bob on the platform at El Paso. He had gotten up to stretch his legs and alleviate some of the pressure on his spine, and I was getting off the train for good. I would walk through the deserted streets of El Paso, into the Second Ward, and then across the border into Juarez. What I was looking for I don't know. "Vaya con Dios, my friend," he said. We shook hands, I threw my backpack on and walked off to find my next adventure.